Written along the way by @thumbs_south. Costs are what they paid on the day.
- 1
Stop 1 · stay ~1h
Puerto Natales exit
Walk to the Ruta 9 roundabout at the north edge of town. Stand past the petrol station.
Backpacker pro-tip · Write “CALAFATE” in big letters, plus “🇦🇷 frontera” — drivers decide in 2 seconds.
- ⇄
Stop 2 · stay ~45m
Cerro Castillo border post
Chilean exit stamp. Tiny village with one café and a lot of patient hitchhikers.
Border crossing
Chile ⇄ Argentina
- Post:
- Cerro Castillo / Río Don Guillermo
- Hours:
- 08:00 – 22:00 (summer)
~1 km no-man’s-land on foot is allowed. Argentine side asks for onward proof occasionally.
Backpacker pro-tip · Declare ALL fruit, dairy and meat. SAG fines are steep.
- 3
Stop 3 · stay ~1h 30m
La Esperanza junction
A gas station on Ruta 40 and the only hot food for 160 km.
Backpacker pro-tip · Truckers fuel up here at dawn — ask directly at the pumps.
Local cost: ARS empanadas ~ $2 Wind gusts over 90 km/h. Keep your pack weighted down. - 4
Stop 4 · stay ~2h
El Calafate
Lago Argentino turquoise and the gateway to Perito Moreno glacier.
Backpacker pro-tip · America del Sur hostel trades 4 hours of reception work for a bed — check Gigs.